At New York Fashion Week, the Mini Is Out and Long Hemlines Are In

By Samantha Critchell

So long, miniskirts. The up-to-there trend gave way to longer hemlines at New York Fashion Week.

There were more pants, too, than in recent seasons when the dress ruled the runways. Even designers who showed shorter dresses paired them with leg-warmers for a less leggy look.

This week, Oscar de la Renta showed long slim skirts for daytime, while Michael Kors had the slim shape just below the knee as well as more free-flowing knits that grazed the floor.

The old saying that hemlines go up in a good economy and down in a bad one is not always the case, but many did see the longer hemline as a reflection of the Great Recession.

"There's a general growing up of fashion after a very difficult year," said Joanna Coles, editor in chief of Marie Claire magazine. "Women don't want dressing up to be so complicated. The hemline dropping is part of that."

MICHAEL KORS

Here's the recipe for glamour: a hearty serving of luxe cashmere, slim bodysuits, long skirts and crisp coats, with a few furs tossed in and a dash of sparkle. Add a little Michael Kors sizzle.

Kors is a favorite among the stylists, editors and retailers at the Bryant Park tents because he makes aspirational clothes - they look so rich and luxurious but they're also relatable.

There was nothing cryptic in his sporty-chic message for his fall collection, presented Wednesday with fans Molly Sims and Laura Linney in the front row. Sims took nine photos of outfits she wants, including the slouchy cashmere sweatpants with belts and the slinky gold beaded gown with a mermaid hem.

"It was so yummy," said celebrity stylist Rachel Zoe. "Michael really makes women look beautiful. Everyone wants to jump in the clothes from that show."

OSCAR DE LA RENTA

De la Renta has always catered to that well-heeled globe trotter, but did we know she was an international woman of mystery - maybe even a spy?

The fall collection had the underlying vibe of a Cold War espionage novel. His favored print, in fact, was called Astrakhan, the name of a Russian province. It's a velvetlike fur unique to the lambs of that region. The designer also made good use of his signature embroideries on a gray organza gown with a chiffon ruffled collar, and rich colors.

He did, however, tone down the volume that often comes with his clothes. Instead the skirts were long and lean, the gowns slinky with an old Hollywood glamour to them.

TORY BURCH

Burch's city-meets-country look, with sequin-covered tops and dresses, paired with slick waxed cotton jackets and lug-sole boots - high heel ones, of course - packed everything for a weekend getaway very nicely.

Burch, in her notes handed to the editors, retailers and stylists, said she used a palette with lipstick red, cobalt blue as well as must-have caramel, gray and black.

Minis Out, Long Hemlines In

--

Goodbye, mini-skirts. See you in a few years...